Luxury Watches

The world of watches represents a blend of art, engineering, and precision craftsmanship. These timekeeping instruments have evolved from simple mechanical devices into sophisticated accessories that combine functionality with style.

Watch enthusiasts often speak of the "soul" of a timepiece, referring to the thoughtful engineering evident in well-made watches. From luxury Swiss masterpieces to practical everyday timepieces, all watches share fundamental components working together in a carefully orchestrated system.

The relationship between these components determines a watch's accuracy, durability, comfort, and aesthetic appeal. For those new to horology, learning about watch components provides an entry point into a rich tradition while offering practical benefits for purchasing and maintenance decisions.

External Components That Make Up A Watch

1. The Bezel

The bezel is the outer ring surrounding and securing the watch crystal. Beyond aesthetics, bezels serve practical functions depending on the watch type, you could also be looking at parts of a pocket watch.

Fixed bezels remain stationary while rotating bezels come in unidirectional (moving only counterclockwise) and bidirectional varieties. On dive watches, unidirectional bezels are a safety feature preventing accidental time extension underwater.

Bezels can calculate speed (tachymeter), track elapsed time (count-up), or display second time zones (GMT). Materials range from aluminum to ceramic, with the latter offering superior scratch resistance.

2. The Case

The case protects all internal components while contributing to the watch's aesthetic appeal. Common materials include:

• Stainless steel for durability

• Gold for luxury

• Titanium for lightweight strength

• Ceramic for scratch resistance

Case construction features the middle case, case back (solid or transparent), and sometimes a separate bezel. Sizes typically range from 36-44mm, with thickness affecting comfort and wearability. Water resistance ratings indicate the watch's ability to withstand moisture and pressure. These parts are easier to understand with the diagram parts of a watch.

3. The Crown

The crown is the small knob typically located at the 3 o'clock position on the watch case. This component serves multiple essential functions in both mechanical and quartz watches.

In mechanical watches, the crown winds the mainspring when rotated clockwise. For quartz watches, it allows battery changes when the case back is removed. All watches use the crown for time setting when pulled out to different positions.

Many crowns feature distinct designs with knurling patterns for a better grip. On water-resistant watches, screw-down crowns create watertight seals when tightened against the case. Some specialized watches feature crown guards, protective extensions of the case that prevent accidental damage.

4. The Crystal

The crystal is the transparent cover protecting the dial and hands from damage. Three main types exist, each with distinct characteristics:

• Sapphire crystal offers exceptional scratch resistance (nearly as hard as diamond) but can be more brittle and expensive. 

• Mineral glass provides moderate scratch resistance at a more affordable price point. 

• Acrylic/plexiglass, while easily scratched, is inexpensive and highly shatter-resistant.

Many luxury watches feature anti-reflective coatings on their crystals to reduce glare and improve readability. Some vintage-inspired models use domed crystals that create interesting light distortions and enhance the retro aesthetic.

5. The Dial

The dial (or watch face) is where time is displayed and often the most distinctive visual element of a watch. This component typically features hour markers, minute tracks, and the brand logo.

Parts of a watch face come in countless colors and finishes—from sunburst and matte to guilloché patterns with intricate engravings. The legibility of a dial depends on the contrast between its background and markers, with luminous materials often applied to hands and indices for low-light visibility.

Key dial elements include:

• Hour markers (applied indices or printed numerals)

• Minute tracks for precise time reading

• Brand logo or signature

• Date windows or other complications

The quality of dial printing and applied elements often indicates the overall craftsmanship of the timepiece.

6. The Hands

Watch hands are the indicators that display the time as they rotate around the dial. Most watches feature at least an hour hand (shortest), a minute hand (longer), and a seconds hand (thinnest).

Hand styles vary dramatically across watch designs—from classic dauphine and baton shapes to distinctive snowflake, cathedral, or sword hands. The finish can be polished, brushed, or heat-blued, with luminous material often applied for nighttime visibility.

The size and proportion of hands relative to the dial significantly impact legibility. Well-designed watches feature hands of appropriate length, minute hands should reach the minute track, while hour hands typically extend to the hour markers.

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7. The Lugs

Lugs are the extensions that protrude from the top and bottom of the watch case, creating attachment points for the strap or bracelet. These components significantly impact how a watch sits on the wrist.

The distance between opposing lugs (lug-to-lug width) determines how the watch fits across your wrist. This measurement is often more important for comfort than the case diameter. The space between lugs (lug width) typically ranges from 18-24mm and dictates what size strap fits your watch.

Lug designs vary considerably:

• Straight lugs extend directly from the case

• Curved lugs follow wrist contours for better comfort

• Twisted lugs create visual interest and unique aesthetics

Drilled lugs feature small holes that allow for easier strap changes using simple tools rather than specialized equipment.

8. The Strap

The different parts of a wristwatch strap or bracelet attach to the lugs and secure the watch to your wrist. This component significantly influences both comfort and style.

Straps come in various materials, including leather (formal, developed patina), rubber (water-resistant, durable), NATO fabric (secure, casual), and exotic materials like alligator or ostrich. Bracelets are typically metal constructions with articulating links made from the same material as the watch case.

Many modern watches feature quick-release systems allowing tool-free strap changes. The strap's thickness, flexibility, and lining all contribute to wearing comfort, while taper (narrowing toward the buckle) affects both aesthetics and weight distribution.

9. The Buckle

The buckle or clasp secures the strap or bracelet around your wrist. This often-overlooked component comes in several configurations.

• Pin buckles (similar to belt buckles) offer simplicity and reliability but require removing the watch to put it on. 

• Deployment clasps fold open and closed, allowing you to slip your wrist in without removing the watch completely. 

• Butterfly clasps fold into a compact, symmetrical unit when closed.

Safety features like push buttons or friction locks prevent accidental opening. Higher-end watches often include micro-adjustment systems allowing small sizing changes to accommodate wrist swelling throughout the day.

Internal Components Powering Your Timepiece

10. The Movement

The movement (or caliber) is the engine of the watch—the mechanism powering all functions. This critical component determines accuracy, features, and maintenance requirements.

Three main movement types exist:

• Quartz: Battery-powered with a vibrating crystal for exceptional accuracy

• Mechanical: Hand-wound through the crown, typically 40-72 hour power reserve

• Automatic: Self-winding via a rotor that harnesses wrist motion

Movements can be mass-produced or handcrafted, with varying levels of decoration and finishing. Many watch enthusiasts prize in-house movements (made by the watch brand itself) over third-party calibers for their exclusivity and craftsmanship.

11. The Mainspring

The mainspring is the power source in mechanical and automatic watches. This coiled metal strip stores energy when wound and gradually releases it to power the movement.

When fully wound, quality mainsprings provide power reserves ranging from 40-80 hours in modern watches. The barrel houses the mainspring, with the barrel arbor serving as the winding point. As the mainspring unwinds, it delivers consistent torque to the gear train.

12. The Balance Wheel

The balance wheel works with the balance spring to regulate timekeeping in mechanical watches. This weighted wheel oscillates back and forth at a consistent rate (typically 28,800 vibrations per hour).

Each oscillation allows the escapement to release a precise amount of energy from the mainspring. The balance wheel's weight, size, and design significantly impact accuracy and resistance to positional errors. High-end watches often feature balance wheels made from special alloys or with gold timing screws for fine adjustment.

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13. The Escapement

The escapement controls the release of energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel. This mechanism creates the distinctive ticking sound in parts of a mechanical watch while ensuring consistent timekeeping.

The lever escapement (most common today) features an escape wheel, lever, and pallets working together to transfer energy in measured amounts. Each tick represents the escapement allowing the gear train to advance one increment while simultaneously giving the balance wheel a push to maintain its oscillation.

14. The Jewels

Jewels in watches are synthetic rubies or sapphires that serve as bearings at pivot points. These hard, smooth surfaces reduce friction between moving metal parts, improving accuracy and longevity.

The number of jewels typically ranges from 17 (basic mechanical movements) to 21-23 (standard quality) and sometimes 25+ (high-end calibers). Not all jewels are functionally necessary. Some premium watches include additional jewels primarily for marketing purposes.

Key locations for jewels include:

• Balance wheel pivots (critical for timekeeping)

• Escape wheel pivots (high friction points)

• Gear train bearings (continuous motion areas)

Modern jewels are created through industrial processes rather than using natural gemstones, making them consistent in size and quality while remaining cost-effective.

15. The Rotor

The rotor is a semicircular metal weight that enables automatic winding in self-winding watches. This component rotates freely with wrist movement, converting kinetic energy into stored energy in the mainspring.

Rotors can be full-sized (spanning the entire movement) or micro-rotors (smaller and integrated into the movement plane). Materials range from standard metals to precious materials like gold or platinum, which provide greater mass and winding efficiency in a smaller package.

Some high-end watches feature decorated rotors with engraving, skeletonization, or special finishes visible through transparent case backs. Bidirectional winding systems allow the rotor to wind the mainspring regardless of which direction it spins, improving efficiency.

Wrap Up

Understanding the components that make up a watch transforms how you view these precision instruments. From the visible external elements to the hidden mechanical marvels within, each part plays a crucial role in both function and aesthetics.

At Bijoux Eclore, we keep timepieces that honor traditional watchmaking while embracing modern innovation. The luxury brands we offer have an attention to detail that extends from carefully selected movements to meticulously finished external components. Explore our collection of Tissot, Hamilton, Rolex, and more.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between automatic and mechanical watch movements?

Mechanical watches require manual winding through the crown, while automatic watches self-wind through a rotor that converts wrist movement into energy. Both use similar internal components, but automatic watches add the convenience of not needing daily winding.

How do I know if my watch has a sapphire crystal?

Perform the water drop test—a drop of water on sapphire will appear more compact due to its higher surface tension. Alternatively, tap it lightly with a metal object; sapphire produces a clearer, higher-pitched sound than mineral glass or acrylic.

Why do some watches have more jewels than others?

More jewels typically indicate a more complex movement with additional functions or complications. Basic mechanical movements have around 17 jewels at essential friction points, while complicated watches may have 25+ jewels to support extra components.

How does water resistance in watches actually work?

Water resistance relies on gaskets and seals at vulnerable points like the crystal, case back, and crown. Screw-down crowns create watertight seals when tightened, while the case construction determines pressure resistance, measured in atmospheres (ATM) or meters.

What determines a watch's accuracy, and how can it be improved?

Accuracy depends primarily on the movement quality, with factors including temperature compensation, positional variation, and regulation. Mechanical watches can be adjusted by watchmakers, while quartz watches generally maintain their factory accuracy throughout their battery life.